The comp is over for this year and the scores can be found here... 2011 Social Comp Scores.pdf

The Lactic Factory Social Competition 2011


Format – The Lactic Factory Social Format!  Every Wednesday for 10 weeks, some new problems will be set and identified as competition problems, their grade will vary from easy to hard.  You as the competitor have 7 days to climb these problems while they’re eligible. After the week is up you will no longer get credit for completing the problem.  If you manage to complete any of the problems you can tick yourself off as having done it on the posted leader board in the gym.

Categories – Male and Female, prizes will be given out randomly.

Duration – The first problems go up on Wednesday 12th October (Yes it’s started already!) and the last problems close on Tuesday 20th December.

Entry Fee – IT’S FREE!!! This comp format is designed to encourage a regular training habit and also to try and introduce climbers to the idea of working a problem.

Rules – Standard Lactic Factory protocols - Sit starts with identified start holds, controlled finish on top rail, no bonus for flashes, no dabs on mats allowed.

Scoring - Each problem will have a score allocated to it based on how many people climbed it during the week – the more ascents a problem receives, the less points it will be worth. The points will be allocated according to the following table.                  

Ascents
   Points
Ascents
   Points
Ascents
   Points
1
   100
11
   31
21
   10
2
   80
12
   28
22
   9
3
   65
13
   26
23
   8
4
   55
14
   24
24
   7
5
   51
15
   22
25
   6
6
   47
16
   20
26
   5
7
   43
17
   18
27
   4

8

   40
18
   16
28
   3
9
   37
19
   14
29
   2
10
   34
20
   12
30+
   1

Problems will be eligible for 1 week, from opening Wednesday through to closing the following Tuesday.
At the end of the competition everyone will be able to delete their lowest scoring week. This will allow people to miss a week for whatever reason and not be too penalised – in previous years I found that if someone missed a week they would quit from the comp as it was too hard to regain a competitive score.  However this will also reward the climbers who have come every week as they will be able to delete the week that they climbed poorly or the week where all of the problems were hard (relatively).

The Jist – So, you come in as a part of your normal training session and you give the comp problems a try. After all, they’re new problems, why wouldn’t you? The nice thing about these problems is that there’s a reward for trying a bit harder, or trying them again on your next session.  Watch the other climbers on the problem, ask for beta, practice your sequence and tick that sucker.  Who knows you might end up with a prize at the end of it all.