HOW TO SPOT

Spotting is the skill of guiding a falling boulderer to a safe, controlled landing.

A SPOTTER'S PRIORITIES:

1. PROTECT THE HEAD AND SPINE.

2. STEER THE BOULDERER TOWARDS A GOOD LANDING.
Landing on the mat, feet down, head up.

3. BREAK THE BOULDERER'S FALL.
Absorb some of the force of their fall.

4. DO NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ASCENT.
Avoid touching the boulderer while they are climbing.

Firstly, spotting is not catching. You are not expected to keep the falling climber from landing on the ground, so don't try.

With the entire gym floor covered with mats the spotter can concentrate on ensuring that the falling boulderer lands on their feet. Focus on the boulderers' centre of gravity, not their limbs, as they can be misleading. If the centre of gravity suddenly drops, it is likely that the boulderer is falling. On less steep terrain they will usually be falling vertically or feet first. Grab the boulderer around the waist and gently slow their fall. Continue to keep them upright during the landing. On steeper walls or if the boulderer pops off unexpectedly, they may be falling at an angle. Grab further up the body, on the lats or in the armpits and slow the upper body enough for their feet to rotate under them. Again, continue to guide the boulderer all the way down until they have completed their landing.

Be Realistic - A 50kg spotter will be ineffective for a 90kg boulderer.
Pay Attention - Expect the boulderer to explode off at any instant, you'll be more effective and less likely to get hit or squashed if they do pop off unexpectedly.
You are not a Beta Source - You are a spotter! Let someone else point out the hidden foothold. If you want to watch to learn a sequence, get someone else to spot.
Previsualise - Look at the problem and ask the boulderer before they start. Try and predict where they might fall and which direction. Warn other boulderers nearby.
Prepare - Some people just let go and drop and some people explode off with arms and legs flailing as they fly off to the side. Be prepared for anything.
Ask - Still Confused? Ask staff for help or a demo.

Download this document as a pdf file here.